The Caleuche: The Ghost Ship of Chiloe

 

El Caleuche is a big ghost boat that navigates the seven seas and often appears in the Chiloé chanels. El Caleche navegates over and down the sea surface, but never down the sun light.

El Caleuche is in the habit appear at calm night through the fog, and looks like a big candlemaker with beautiful lights over its cover. Music, voices and laughs are listen from the Caleuche's cover, like a big and funny party.
El Caleuche appears and disappears so quicky through the fog, that it doesn't leave any vestige of its presence.
If someone tries to persecute it, El Caleuche becomes tranformed in a slippery seal or a tree trunk that floats over the waters or lays over the sand of some beach.
The Caleuche's crew is composed by two kind of sailors : witches whom came in to the ship, over the back of the Caballo Marino, and the dead shipwrecked persons, whom were carried to the ship by La Pincoya. When this last people come on to the Caleuche's surface, they return to the life, but a new life full of eternal happiness.
The resurected people belong to the other life, but they obtain from their bosses license to visit their families once a  year. In this way they can give consolation and economic help to their families.
El Caleuche obeys the Millalobo commands, and have for  mission to travel the seven seas, watching the state of seas and their inhabitants, and punishing the people whom attempt against sea and its creatures. While El Caleuche travels the seas, helps other ships with troubles, to find sure ports, or moving them at incredible speeds.

The Millalobo 
 It was a synchronicity that led us to the island of Chiloe, Chile, and the legend of ghost ship Caleuche. We first heard about the ghost ship on a flight from Miami to Santiago, in July 1983. We were on our honeymoon and Chile was our first destination. We struck up a conversation with the woman who sat next to us and asked her where the mythology, the mystery, of Chile could be found. “Chiloe,” she said without hesitation. We’d never heard of it. 
“It’s an island off Puerto Montt, where land transportation ends in my country.  From Puerto Montt, you take a ferry to Chiloe.The name means land of sea gulls. There, they believe in a ghost ship, the Caleuche, that is manned by sorcerers or brujos, who are immortal and possess the power to alter their shapes at will. They can transform themselves into wolves, fish, rocks and birds, and when they take human form, they are tall, foreign, blond.” She went on to say that some islanders believed that the ship itself could transform its shape.
We were hooked. Our synchronistic choice of seats pretty much defined our journey through Chile. We spent two days in Santiago, then boarded an overnight train to Puerto Montt. It was the middle of winter in Chile and as soon as we arrived in Puerto Montt, we went shopping for jackets. Floridians, it seems, are never prepared for winter–especially in July.  The next morning, we hopped the ferry to Ancud, one of three towns on Chiloe. Once we found a place to stay, we started our exploration. 
At a local restaurant, we quickly discovered that the ghost ship wasn’t just a myth to the locals. It was based on real events that involved encounters with the brujos, who supposedly crewed  the ship. The villagers also spoke of stories of the pincoyas – the mermaids – that inhabited the waters near the island. Everything in the restaurant – from the ashtrays to the art on the walls – depicted the ship, the mermaids, the brujos.
We asked our waiter if there was anyone in town we could talk to who had seen the Caleuche. He directed us to a neighborhood down the road, where many of the homes are built on stilts that keep them above the water. “Ask anyone you see about the Caleuche.”
But first, we stopped at the pier where a fisherman offered us a local delicacy – a sea urchin cut in half, spines removed and the jelly-like innards splashed with lime juice. Rob tried one, and while he was devouring it, I asked the fishermen about mermaids. He sort of chuckled. “The legend says that when the fish are running, the mermaids face shore. When the fish are gone, the mermaids face the ocean, so their backs are to us.”
My next question – had he ever seen one – brought a response that turned out to be fairly common. “My father did.” Or, my cousin, grandmother, friend etc. But there were also people who claimed to be actual witnesses.
We walked on toward the outskirts of town and paused on a bridge, gazing out over the harbor where the Caleuche supposedly had been sighted. One night in 1968, a pastor in Ancud was startled to see a large sailing vessel enter the shallow, unnavigable waters of the Rio Pudeto, where we were standing. “I saw several brilliant lights, then a mast, then two more masts and finally, a ship illuminated in brilliant colors.” Father Garcia watched the ship for half an hour before it disappeared in the same slow manner that it had materialized.
Chilean author Antonio Cardenas Tabies believes he sighted the ship in one of its altered forms – as a small launch that approached him and his four companions in the fog. Even though the boat passed within several feet of their boat, they didn’t see anyone on board and didn’t hear any noise from the motor. Then Cardenas and his buddies seemed to have some sort of space/time slippage. They kept rowing for hours and at dawn, found themselves in the same spot. “We hadn’t advanced a meter in any direction,” Tabies wrote in Aboard the Caleuche, published in Santiago in 1980. But that experience led him to interview dozens of islanders who had witnessed an appearance of the ship or encountered its crew members.
Many of the experiences Tabies recounts seem to deal with individuals who bear an uncanny resemblance to MIBs. The crew has been blamed for abductions of islanders. When these abductees returned to their villages, they didn’t have any memory of where they’d been.  One man who was supposedly abducted at the age of 18 and returned to his village 50 years later, claimed he had been on a boat and implored his brother not to ask anything more about it.

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